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Calibro 38 – The Second Ascent

Back in January 2018 I was introduced to Andonno by my friends Alberto Pavese, Alberto Pautasso and Cosmin Ruscior. Historical is the first word that comes to mind and it’s clear that the steep walls and chipped nature of the climbing make it a colossal outdoor climbing gym. Perfect for training during the winter months. Anyway, back on that day I was drawn to the sleek grey waterfall polished wall of Tutto da Rifare. Serendipity had it that the route was the Albertos’ project at the time and so with draws already hanging and Pavese’s voice behind me I was able to make a fast flash of the route. Descending I of course noticed the even blanker section of wall to the right – Calibro...

Back to the Future (aka Tik Tok Sok)

Let’s take a trip down memory lane to the beginnings of Explore Climbing transforming from an artisanal project of Alex to the partnership with Read. Back when the idea hadn't even sparked... It’s June 2015 and Read is in Italy on holiday to climb with Alex. One fine day Read, Alex, Cosmin (Alex’s brother) and their partners Alina and Anca, all head to Droide crag in Valle dell’Orco. Upon arriving Read was immediately curious of the question mark written at the base of the line named Tik Tok Sok. “Is this unfreed?” Read asked. “Yep” the boys replied. Read is drawn to the unknown and so they set about trying to free the opening moves, long moves on tiny millimeter thick granite edges. Eventually Read...

Saudi Bolting Project 2019 – Part II of II

Our new location - Wadi Al Akhu, Hariq, KSA Hariq constituted a complete change of scene. From the temperate weather and lush landscapes of the south, we were now in the rocky desert of the central Saudi plateau. Most noticeable was the temperature which was well into the 30ºs even in the shade and we had traded the baboons for countless camels! Wadi Al Akhu Crag Al Akhu means The Brother and the new crag is named for the friendly locals who befriended Joao Miquel, a Riyadh-based expat who bolted the first and only route at the crag in April 2019. The route is the namesake of the crag, Al Akhu. Big respect to all of the expats who spent countless hours checking Google Earth...

Saudi Bolting Project 2019 – Part I of II

Last year we installed 789 glue-in bolts and 91 anchors creating the first two professional developed sport crags in Saudi Arabia. The Saudi Climbing and Hiking Federation have major plans to develop and promote climbing and the community in the Kingdom and we are very proud to be able to continue on as integral partners in 2019. In October 2019 the team equipped 78 new sport climbs in KSA This year the work was split across the country. First up was a much anticipated return to the aesthetic sandstone of Tanomah in the lush south-west. Then, we were going to open a new crag in Hariq, not far from Riyadh. Both crags are about 9 hours apart so we began with a long drive from...

PLANNING YOUR GYM’S TRAINING SPACE

Climbing is mainstream, but that shouldn’t be news to you because The Dawn Wall was headline of the New York Times four years ago! Climbing’s inaugural foray into the Olympics is right around the corner and ‘Free Solo’ has won an Oscar Award. Gym climbing has transformed from climbers training for rock into a standalone sport and distinct lifestyle. What does that mean for climbing gyms? The climbing gym has become the new fitness gym, the yoga studio, the café, hangout, national team training centre, daycare, event centre and much more. It is a place to see and be seen; where every clique from the elite athlete to the dilettante congregate. The climbing gym can become the go-to spot for very diverse groups of people...
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